KC Masterpiece
Brady Singer's note perfect performance was just the start of my trip to the Midwest.
Ever since I read Joe Posnanski’s The Soul of Baseball about the legendary Buck O’Neil, I have wanted to visit the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum in Kansas City, Missouri. Honoring the achievements of players and other dignitaries from the leagues that grew out of MLB’s color barrier, the NLBM is a love letter to star players like Josh Gibson, Satchel Paige, and Oscar Charleston.
I finally decided that life was too short to wait any longer. On September 10, I boarded a plane at Long Beach Airport and arrived in Phoenix just over an hour later. My second flight landed in Kansas City around 11 PM, so I was more than happy to see my hotel room.
The next morning, there was no time to lose. I made my way to the Nelson-Atkins Museum which turned out to be a great, free place to visit. I did end up splurging for the American Art Deco exhibit which carried an admission fee. Aside from paintings and consumer goods, it featured automobiles and even ceramic pieces from the era of popular design.
I spoke to a curator who called the Nelson-Atkins the finest attraction in the city, although he was also partial to the Truman Library and National World War I Museum. I enjoyed Egyptian, Greek, and Japanese art areas before it was time to adjourn for some baseball. Before long, the famous Kauffman Stadium fountain appeared before me. It’s a very intimate ballpark especially for someone raised on Dodger Stadium and the previous iteration of Yankee Stadium.
Brady Singer of the Royals benefited from a first inning double play to retire the Detroit Tigers. A pair of singles by Bobby Witt Jr. and Salvador Pérez helped Kansas City grab an early 1-0 lead. Meanwhile, Singer struck out a half dozen over seven scoreless frames and the number nine hitter Drew Waters gave the home team a 3-0 lead with a second-inning double. As the Royals cruised to a 4-0 victory, I hung out in the Hall of Fame which was a rather comprehensive look at team history.
When the game concluded and I had finally made it to the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum, I realized that it also discusses figures like Major League commissioner Kennesaw Mountain Landis who presided over the banning of players of color from the big leagues until Jackie Robinson joined the Brooklyn Dodgers in 1942. The Newark Eagles played in the Negro National League beginning in 1935, and co-owner Effa Manley was conflicted about the prospect of integration. After all, the Negro Leagues were a going concern employing scores of African Americans across the country. While it was excellent to see Robinson and Larry Doby break the ice in the majors, the Negro Leagues eventually dissolved with their best talent disappearing into major league organizations. It was a bittersweet end to what had been an American institution for the better part of two decades.
Many major league teams have trekked to the intersection of 18th and Vine when they visit the Royals during the season. For that reason, I knew all about the museum’s Field of Dreams and museum president/unofficial city ambassador Bob Kendrick. I marveled at the player statues and large collection of replica jerseys mostly manufactured by Ebbets Field Flannels. The player locker displays proved to be a nice touch as well. Kansas City’s very own O’Neil, who played first base for the Monarchs prior to a managerial career, was featured prominently.
I would have liked to peruse the adjacent American Jazz Museum, but I scarcely had enough time before 5 PM to make a few small purchases at the NLBM gift shop. Instead, I turned right on East 18th Street, passing Vine Street and reaching an establishment known as Soiree. While I ate a sandwich at the ballpark, I had gotten quite hungry since that time. As I entered, my server explained that a special pared down menu was in effect for the football game. Indeed, the Chiefs were on the road against the Arizona Cardinals and the restaurant was full of fans clad in red. The raucous atmosphere culminated in a 44-21 Kansas City victory.
Having downed a Long Island iced tea and catfish sandwich, I arranged for a ride back to the hotel. My baseball adventure had concluded, but I still had big plans for my final full day in the city. I wrote a couple of postcards and settled into bed more quickly than I had anticipated.
In the morning, I found myself at Union Station downtown. Fittingly, there is an extensive model railroad museum inside the former transit hub. After a quick post office visit, I headed downstairs to the main event. After researching the Mayan culture extensively during high school, this was going to be a treat.
There were plenty of artifacts in the Maya exhibition, not to mention replicas of stelae and a discussion of the culture’s modern descendants. Until I make it to Palenque in Mexico or Tikal in Guatemala, I don’t mind settling for such a rich collection of objects and historical lessons.
A bridge over train tracks led me to my lunch spot, a large brick building known as Fiorella’s Jack Stack Barbecue. Someone had warned me not to skip the burnt ends, so I ordered a sandwich filled with them. The side of corn was tasty, but the star of the plate just might have been the barbecue baked beans. Later I told my driver about my experience and he replied that just thinking about the place made him hungry.
I walked around downtown a bit but ended up back at my room. Fortunately, I was given the suggestion to try the Green Lady Lounge in order to enjoy live jazz. One patron spoke at length about her favorite spirits with the bartender. Meanwhile, the opening act was the Brian Baggett Trio and the Jeff Shirley Organ Trio (featured in the video below) came on next. Only an early morning flight kept me from closing the place down at 2 AM. Sipping a drink while taking in the relaxed atmosphere was a fitting end to a trip I won’t soon forget.
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